TALLY HO CAPSTAN PART2
If you’re in the market for a reliable and efficient capstan for your boat, look no further than the TALLY HO CAPSTAN PART2. This high-quality capstan is designed to provide the power and performance you need to easily raise and lower your anchor, making it an essential piece of equipment for any boating enthusiast.
Features
- High-quality construction for durability and long-lasting performance
- Powerful motor for fast and efficient operation
- Easy to use controls for simple and hassle-free operation
- Compact design for easy installation and space-saving storage
Benefits
The TALLY HO CAPSTAN PART2 offers a range of benefits for boat owners. Its durable construction ensures that it will hold up to the rigors of regular use, while its powerful motor provides the strength needed to effortlessly raise and lower your anchor. The easy to use controls make operating the capstan a breeze, and its compact design means that it won’t take up valuable space on your boat. Plus, with its reliable performance, you can trust that the TALLY HO CAPSTAN PART2 will always be ready when you need it.
Conclusion
When it comes to choosing a capstan for your boat, the TALLY HO CAPSTAN PART2 is a top choice. With its high-quality construction, powerful motor, and easy to use controls, it offers everything you need to make anchoring your boat a simple and efficient process. Don’t settle for an inferior capstan – invest in the TALLY HO CAPSTAN PART2 and enjoy reliable performance every time you head out on the water.
Boy what a struggle. I think maybe your alignment pens are 2 precise And could be alignment blocks rather than pins Just thinking out loudgood luck Just thinking out loud good luck👍
Mate, 31 degrees is like a heatwave what you mean it is below freezing?
not enough oil in the sand and way to cold for it to work, nice try!
Clarke, a question please
On the work on the capstan would it be an idea to screw a backing board to the cope or drag on each turn as an added safety just in case a joult as you turn it over causes a disaster.?
One more suggestion, consider getting a weight lifters back brace or lower back brace to support your back on these larger pours
Seeing your are working on the ground, believe me I have lived with a chronic back for 45+ and it is NO JOKE
🤔 Did I see Keith upto something on a Certain capstan that looked bloody marvellous today?😇
Brilliant work as usual Clarke
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Wondering if you ever use a soft brush for the mica/talc/powder in those recessed areas? I recall one of the old guys in the foundry i grew up by doing that when they cast big flywheels for the hub area.
This was early 1970s and those foundry guys were very good about not hollering at us kids watching them work by the roll up doors and telling us what/why they were doing things.
it's like watching a slow motion car crash. It is a very difficult pattern to mould but the facilities available seem to be somewhat inadequate. Rope and pulley and novice handlers seem to be inconsistent with a quality job.
Difficult things are ………difficult – well done guys.
How did they accomplish this when the original was made in England 100 odd years ago ??
Molding and Pattern Making, another skill that that will die with the current Tradesmen.
How not to make a mould…………He turned a two part mould into a three part, made the top first, then turned it over to make the bottom and removed the box from the pattern and the centre was allways going to get stuck in the pattern as the patern was designed to be removed from the mould. A rapping plate would normaly be fitted but for a one off you would drive a metal spike into the pattern and tap it sideways to facilitate removal which is acheived by screwing in a lifting device such as a coach screw with a big washer welded to the end. The box alignment was a major issue and being able to see the pin location is very important.
Fantastic 👏👏👏 – I know just enough about casting to appreciate just how difficult a job you’ve taken on there guys, keep at it. (DT won’t make ‘America Great Again’, it’s craftsmen like you.)
Hello, I would suggest to modify the pattern that it was two-pieces. (Inner piece and outer piece connected very loose). That would help splitting the mold. After mold is splitted patterns should be possible to remove easier. Cheers and good luck
Will the finale part be made from cast steel or ductile iron?
my one suggestion would be that the interior/ bottom section is the most important, woth the most detail and features, the exterior and top portion can be more rough and then machined after the fact.
If your crew don't get a free ride on Tally Ho I'll be disappointed
21:00 💀
Funny how the pakies would make 200 of these in the morning …pour them and make another 200 in the arvo… they make it look easy..🤔😂😎🇦🇺👌
Your tenacity is worth bottling.
I guess it all par of the course for your trade. But it still leaves a layman like me in awe.
Very tricky having to work with a cheek piece , no idea why the pattern was built like that. But hindsight is 20-20.
If you could use co2 cured sand you might have had less molding issues but more pouring issues ?
Cheers Warren, WDPattern co
Love to see how mold are made! Such an important skill that needs to be passed onto new generations. Eager to see how you learn from this failed attempt. Maybe grease the pins so they don't get stuck? I'm sure you'll try to repack to not have to be flipped as well. So many aspects to consider.